If you are into perfumes, you like them, and you follow the trends, you will know that right now, especially in niche perfumery, all everyone talks about is sillage. To emanate a strong scent, to leave an airy mark in the room, is THE important thing. But just as the market screams louder than ever for maximum projection, a new player enters the game. The new luxury hailing from South Korea is the direct consequence of a deep cultural divergence. K-perfume, in fact, does not seek to seduce, but to harmonize; an olfactory move that hides a complex and winning market strategy.
A phenomenon of this magnitude can no longer be tracked with occasional analysis: it demands a structured and recurring business intelligence tool. To address this strategic need, Koreami launches Koreami Trend Alert, our new monthly editorial series dedicated to rigorous, forward-looking analysis of Korean products poised to become the next big trend in Italy as well. The series will be conducted in collaboration with one of the most authoritative and inspiring voices in the sector in Italy: Maria D’Amato, Marketing & Exhibition Senior Specialist at KOTRA – the governmental agency for the promotion of commercial exchanges and investments between South Korea and Italy.
Her professional story is a tale in itself: begun 26 years ago after an experience in China that opened the doors of Korean culture to her, it embodies the very essence of the vision that KOTRA carries forward. She describes the agency not as a mere export support office, but as an institution that has always dedicated itself to “making Korea an increasingly integrated and dynamic player in the global economy,” thanks to meeting “visionary people and companies capable of anticipating the times.”
Let’s enter the world of K-Perfume with her, discovering why this luxury is “creative, sustainable, and emotional” and why in Korea fragrance is considered an extension of personal care and respect for others. It is an approach that makes it “more related to the sphere of well-being than to that of seduction.“
Therefore, we give the floor to Maria D’Amato!
Hello Maria, and welcome back to Koreami! Tell us: how did you arrive at KOTRA, and above all, how did you become interested in Korea?
I started working at KOTRA Milan 26 years ago, after a formative experience in China that profoundly marked my personal and professional journey. In 1996, while studying at Renmin Daxue in Beijing, all my classmates were Korean: it was then that I discovered Korean culture, its energy, and its extraordinary ability to look towards the future. When I returned to Italy a few years later, I answered an advertisement in the Corriere della Sera. They were looking for staff for the KOTRA Milan office, and within a very short time, they contacted me.
From that moment, a professional and personal journey began that has been strengthened year after year thanks to meeting visionary people and Korean companies capable of anticipating the times and inspiring me every day.
KOTRA is known as an agency that supports Korean companies abroad, but in reality, it does much more. How would you describe it?
One could say it acts as a bridge between Korea and the rest of the world, helping companies connect, grow, and collaborate globally. Beyond favoring the export of Korean enterprises, KOTRA guides companies through every stage of their internationalization journey: from analyzing foreign markets and seeking commercial partners, to providing support during trade fairs and economic missions. Simultaneously, it promotes foreign investment in Korea, offering assistance to those who wish to enter the Korean market. However, KOTRA’s value extends beyond mere commerce: it promotes innovation and technological cooperation, forging ties that strengthen economic and industrial relations between Korea and various countries worldwide. KOTRA is an institution committed to making Korea an increasingly integrated and dynamic player in the global economy, while simultaneously supporting the growth of businesses and international relations.
As a Senior Specialist for KOTRA, you certainly have a privileged viewpoint on Korean trends. If you had to describe Korean perfumery in three words, which would you choose, and why?
If I had to describe Korean perfumery in three words, I would choose:
- Creative – Korean fragrances often experiment with unusual combinations of notes, integrating natural ingredients with modern touches, showing an audacious and original approach.
- Sustainable – The Korean beauty market pays increasing attention to sustainability, both in the choice of ingredients and in the packaging, reflecting values of environmental responsibility.
- Emotional – Korean perfumes aim to create a sensory experience that involves memories and emotions, often inspired by stories or cultural elements, transforming the fragrance into a means of personal connection.
Unlike the European tradition, where the olfactory pyramid dominates, many Korean brands seem to favor a more “linear” and intimate evolution. In your opinion, is this a more aesthetic or a more cultural choice?
That is a very interesting question—and in the case of Korean perfumes, the answer is actually a combination of both dimensions: aesthetic and cultural.
From an aesthetic point of view, many Korean brands tend to prefer “linear” fragrances, perfumes that maintain consistency from the opening to the base, without the classic pyramidal development typical of European perfumery. This choice reflects a desire to offer discrete and easily wearable perfumes in daily life—in line with the minimalist and sober taste that characterizes much of Korean design and cosmetics.
But the deeper motivation is cultural. In Korea, fragrance is often perceived not as a sign of seduction or individual affirmation, but rather as an extension of personal care and respect for others. The perfume must harmonize with the skin and the environment, not impose itself. For this reason, the olfactory experience tends to be more intimate, “silent,” and stable over time. In Korea, harmony and discretion are sought after, values deeply rooted in the Korean sensibility.
This approach makes Korean perfumery a unique case on the global scene: more related to the sphere of well-being than to that of seduction.
K-Perfume is a luxury niche. What is the distinctive element (ingredients, R&D, or formulation philosophy) that, in your opinion, clearly differentiates it from Western perfumery traditions?
I would say that what makes K-Perfume truly unique is its philosophical and emotional approach. While Western perfumery traditionally focuses on intensity, recognizability, and strong sillage, Korean perfumes seek personal connection and harmony with the wearer. In Korea, there is a true “less is more” culture: the perfume must accompany discreetly, almost intimately.
There is also a strong scientific research foundation behind these fragrances. The Korean beauty sector has a long tradition of innovation and R&D, and this is also reflected in the world of perfume. Many brands use natural ingredients typical of Korea, reinterpreted in a modern key with highly advanced extraction techniques, often derived directly from cosmetics.
Another distinctive aspect is the cultural and sensory dimension. Korean perfumes tell stories: a landscape, a memory, a feeling related to everyday Korean life. This philosophy is also perceived in the design and packaging: clean lines, natural materials, a sober but extremely refined aesthetic.
K-Perfume does not seek to impose itself, but to create a silent dialogue with the wearer. It is a more interior, more emotional luxury, which perfectly reflects the sensibility and modernity of contemporary Korean culture.
According to the KOTRA observatory, what are the next olfactory or formulation trends that will drive Korean innovation in this sector in 2026?
Korean innovation in the world of fragrances will be guided by three main directions.
First of all, personalization: AI and biometric data will allow for the creation of “tailor-made” perfumes, adapting to the user’s mood or skin. Some Korean start-ups are already experimenting with digital mini-labs to mix essences in real-time. Then there is the theme of olfactory well-being. Fragrances will not only be “nice to smell” but will have a function: helping to relax, concentrate, or sleep better. This is an approach that combines cosmetics, neuroscience, and traditional Korean herbalism. Finally, sustainability and new textures: waterless formulations, solid perfumes or balms, biotechnological and traceable ingredients. The focus is on cleaner, more transparent, and more environmentally friendly products, but always with a refined sensory touch, often inspired by natural materials and Korean culture.
What is the sales channel (e-commerce, luxury retail, specialized boutiques) that KOTRA sees as most strategic for growing these brands in Europe, and what margins can Italian operators expect?
In Europe, Korean brands are growing thanks to a hybrid approach, combining digital and physical experience. E-commerce remains the most strategic starting point: it allows for telling the brand’s story, testing new markets, and reaching an audience attentive to innovation and sustainability. But the real strength comes when this online dialogue translates into a selected presence in the right places. Specialized boutiques and high-end concept stores are essential for building value: spaces where consumers can experience the product, discover its textures, olfactory notes, and identity. “Perfume or the sensory product is not bought only with the head—but with experience.” For Italian operators, the outlook is interesting: it is not about chasing large volumes but focusing on authentic brands, capable of bringing a new idea of luxury—more technological, cleaner, and more emotional. It is a segment where Italy and Korea can dialogue very well: one with its taste for beauty, the other with its capacity to innovate and surprise.
Recently we saw the collaboration between BORNTOSTANDOUT and Yeonjun (TOMORROW X TOGETHER). What are your thoughs on this branding strategy (K-Pop x K-Perfume) and its impact on Western markets?
The collaboration between BORNTOSTANDOUT and Yeonjun of TOMORROW X TOGETHER is a very interesting example of how K-pop is becoming a strategic lever even in the luxury and artistic perfumery sector. BORNTOSTANDOUT is a niche Korean brand with a strong and provocative identity, and the association with a global pop icon like Yeonjun serves to make the brand more accessible and recognizable outside of Asia. This synergy works because it unites two elements that well represent contemporary Korea: audacious creativity and international pop culture. In Western markets, especially among young people, K-pop is now a global cultural language, and this type of collaboration can facilitate the discovery of K-Perfume—a new frontier after the K-beauty boom. Naturally, the challenge will be to transform curiosity into loyalty: this requires an authentic narrative and targeted distribution.
Looking at Italy, what are in your opinion the most effective strategies for making K-perfumery appreciated by a sophisticated public still unaccustomed to this language?
In Italy, the perfume audience is extremely sophisticated, but often linked to historic European houses. To make K-perfumery appreciated, it is therefore necessary to focus not on the “exotic novelty,” but on the artistic and cultural identity. The Italian consumer responds well to authentic narratives, so it is necessary to present Korean fragrances as the expression of a new olfactory school, not as a simple pop trend. The most effective strategies are a physical and experiential presence—pop-up stores, temporary boutiques, sensory installations that combine perfume, art, and design. Followed by curated communication, which explains the brand’s philosophy and the quality of the composition, perhaps involving Korean noses and Italian designers in a creative dialogue. Finally, targeted collaborations with lifestyle magazines and niche concept stores can help consumers perceive K-perfume as a new form of contemporary luxury, refined but not elitist.
Is there an emerging Korean company in K-Perfume that KOTRA is actively supporting and that we should keep an eye on as an example of this new wave?
KOTRA Milan supports small and medium-sized Korean enterprises that wish to explore the Italian market, offering dedicated services to facilitate meetings with potential partners and new business opportunities. The Consumer Goods team does not promote a single brand, but is committed to valuing the entire K-Perfumery ecosystem and, more generally, the K-Lifestyle, telling the Italian public about the creativity and identity of Korean companies. Our goal is to accompany emerging brands from Korea on their path of dialogue and collaboration with Italian distributors, retailers, and buyers, building concrete bridges between the two perfume cultures and fostering an authentic exchange between tradition and innovation.
This first exploration of the K-Perfume sector yields a strategic truth: the new luxury is measured not by the power of its sillage, but by the depth of its cultural resonance. We have learned that a perfume can be an act of well-being, a sustainable design product, and a vehicle for emotional values. This is the unmistakable signature of Korea: uniting technological innovation with a subtle cultural intelligence that speaks of harmony and not imposition.
But K-Perfume is just the first act. If perfumery has taught us to listen to the Korean ‘whisper,’ the upcoming trends we explore—always with the expert guidance of Maria D’Amato—will demonstrate how this same new cultural code is having a powerful impact on entire sectors, from retail to design, and from food tech to fashion.
The appointment is for next month: keep following us to discover where the next beacon of Koreami Trend Alert will point. The course is set, and the journey toward the future of the Korean market is only just beginning.
The Koreami Trend Alert series is produced in collaboration with Gaia Mauro.
